I was really excited about the new Periplo in Portixol. You can read about it here. But now I was there again with a few colleagues. And we ordered again and had more time …
Let’s start from the back. We had good wine with the Terrras Gauda from 2021, a few beers, water and ate four. The price would have been almost a bargain at around 270, – Euro for the quality I had expected after the last visit.
Scrap wood from Tyrol – if you can believe it …
And it started with the attentive service asking us if we would like some fresh gammas from Soller. Soller is a picturesque little town in the northwest of the island, including Port de Soller. And there are the famous shrimp. Now I do not want to impute evil to anyone. But: Do you know the many houses or great tables made of “old wood from Tyrol”? Do you have a rough idea of how paved over every mountain meadow would once have had to be with a hut in order to be able to “mine” these tremendous quantities that are consumed in the market. I have a similar feeling – and in principle – with the gambas from Soller. The harvest area is relatively small. Almost every even a touch better restaurant offers this delicacy … Hmmm … So this by way of introduction and addition that I am NOT an expert on marine life, just like to eat it …
Gambas from Soller – in Periplo in Portixol
So we dared the experiment and were disappointed. Cliffy and clear. Not because any of us could have really judged whether gambas from Soller taste exactly the same or different. But because neither the texture, which was slimy in parts, nor the noticeably fishy taste bordering on obtrusive suited us all. The kitchen, which was informed by the service, let us know that it was supposed to be completely fresh goods from today. As I said, I am not a fish expert. But can only say that if very fresh produce from Soller tastes like this, then I would not only not want to pay a premium price for it. I would not order them even for less money.
In fact, the kilo price on the bill was absolutely humane at 27 euros. And honestly also speaks for the fact that it was not at all Gambas from Soller. If you buy gambas from Soller at the Mercat de Oliver, then your price is rather around 100,- Euro per kilo. Sure, restaurateurs have other sources and take different quantities. But hmmm …
Such and other breads
The pan tostada I ordered was a pan cristal in my opinion. Which is a fluffy crusty white bread with yeast, on which is then crushed tomatoes and garlic. In any case, it was decidedly tasty and good, which – as is so often the case with what are actually simple dishes – is not a given. So clearly an upgrade, because pan tostada is often understood to mean those rusk-like dried-up dwarf breads that our Spanish hosts take to taste their really fantastic chic. For whatever reason …
The Pan Cristal, by the way, is – if you will – a summer version of the Pan Catalan, which is served in Catalonia and in the south of France. But there with a gray bread or rather a brownish white bread, as it is also used in Mallorca for the pa amb oli.
The tartare was a visual poem, but you can see that for yourself. A really creative boss who conjures up something so beautiful. Chapeau for this picture of a dish.
Opinions differed on the “Atun blue”. For me, the fruit content was too high. And I found it distinctly too tart, my colleagues liked it better than I did. The fish itself was great. Visually a poem. But taste as I said for me so rather medium convincing.
The ceviche was not my taste at all, but objectively it was good. Here too, however, the acidity was ostensibly dominant. For my taste really too much of a good thing even for a ceviche. But apart from that, a beautiful composition.
The Saint Peter’s fish looked fantastic. But was unfortunately a touch too dry. The vegetables were also good, but a touch worse than the revelation the week before at Periplo in Portixol. So both are good, but no more.
For dessert I had ordered a composition with puff pastry and pistachios. Looked nice, but unfortunately was not my cup of tea. The puff pastry was good, then on it was placed like an elongated cube a kind of semi-frozen from pistachio. I found it clearly too massive. And it wasn’t nice to eat either.
Friends had written to me that they were dissatisfied with the service. I can’t confirm that. On both visits the service was very nice and courteous, the first time also highly competent.
Conclusion of the second visit: Restaurants often need a while to settle in. Kitchen and service have to find their processes. And then suddenly there are guests. As a guest, I don’t really have to be interested, but that’s the way it is. I enjoyed both visits. And was actually disappointed the second time I visited the Periplo in Portixol because it was so outstandingly good the first time. Would I have been satisfied with the result of the second visit in isolation?
My conclusion for the Periplo in Portixol
As a “total work of art,” yes. The view is fantastic. The service is nice. Visually, each of the dishes was a little sensation. Taste-wise the first time yes, the second time half was very good, the rest went in the direction of satisfactory to good. Price / performance I find – always including the location – but still okay.
What do I wish the Periplo in Portixol and me? Please manage to build on the great quality of my first visit in the long term in a stable manner. I suspect it will be enough if the periplo in Portixol would not improve. Simply because it is little first line gastronomy at the level with a modern and really exciting menu. And because Mallorca is so popular that average quality is often enough. We can also see this in real estate…
Step on it friends!
I would find it great to have reliable quality at the level of the first visit “around the corner” tangible. And I am writing this here quite selfishly. Please dear Periplo, make that little bit more effort!
If you try the Periplo in Portixol, write a comment here please and tell your experience. Simple, so that the overall picture fits! Enjoy it and enjoy!